Guest Post: Smells Like Summer

Asia Grant presents, the Scent of a Leo.

I don’t know about you, but my FYP has recently become a depressing barrage of beauty tools meant to ward off aging and attract men in finance. I am inundated by laborious morning sheds and pricey everything showers that urge one to militaristically bring the body and face to heel. In part because of exasperation and in part because of Jessica DeFino, I’ve found myself increasingly leaning away from this mindset of beauty as a weapon and towards beauty as *play*. And there’s nothing I like to play with more than perfume. It allows you to change characters, to switch up your olfactory backdrop, to write a story in the air…perfume is that old costume box you kept in your childhood bedroom.

In the search of the perfect summer scent, I turned to my friend and perfumer Asia Grant. She’s the founder and creative director of Redoux NYC, a fabulous fragrance house beloved by the downtown set. Herewith, her recs.

Midjourney art, generated by me.

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Asia Grant’s Recs

When Remy and I first met on set for a [redacted] campaign¹, I showed her my collection of perfume samples that I keep in my purse for such occasions. She told me she was looking for a new perfume that was juicy, in-your-face, and fun. I loved this prompt. For the last few years, the trend has leaned towards soft and musky perfumes. And I have grown TIRED of them.

Asia Grant, Founder and Creative Director of Redoux (photo via her IG)

I ended up interviewing her for my podcast, It’s Called Taste, where she shared the secrets of her writing career and I recommended several perfumes (you can also listen to it on Spotify). But I haven’t stopped thinking about loud and fun perfumes.

So here’s my case: the time has come to retire the subtle perfumes and usher in the perfumes that enter the room with a declarative statement. I’ve compiled a range of perfumes that all exude a zest for life without being overbearing or cloying.

Each has to fit this specific criteria: strong sillage (scent cloud) and staying power, uniqueness, and the ability to elicit compliments.

Acne Studios par Frederic Malle

Nothing brings me more joy when two heavy hitters come together to make magic. Acne Studios par Frederic Malle is the perfume house’s second brand collaboration. And as one would expect, it smells expensive.

Acne Studios par Frederic Malle (Ssense, $295)

This is a true aldehydic perfume. Aldehydic perfumes can range from smelling fruity, soapy/waxy, or powdery and are used to brighten and expand a fragrance. To me, their uniquely binding trait is that they smell extremely inviting, but are mischievous at their core. The most famous aldehydic perfume is Chanel No.5.

This smells so clean it almost squeaks. With notes of peach, violet, and sandalwood, it smells like you just took a shower in an indoor/outdoor shower and put on the perfect white t-shirt and jeans. Very Acne Studios. It is only a matter of time before this is the gatekept scent of the Lower East Side or LA.

But there is nuance here. After about an hour of drydown, its character presents like the plot of an A24 film. I’ll leave it up to you if it’s more of a Midsommar or a Everything, Everywhere, All at Once.

If you like Blanche by Byredo, you’d enjoy this fragrance.

DS&Durga Jasmin Yucatan

From my personal hall of fame - Jazmin Yucatan is a perfume that will never go out of style. White florals are often a “safe” bet that leave much to be desired. Like when you’re trying to describe someone as “nice.” But this white floral is far from nice - it’s mesmerizing.

Jazmin Yucatan by D. S. & Durga (Revolve, $75)

Picture Marpessa Dawn in Black Orpheus - that is the essence of Jazmin Yucatan. It’s free-spirited, unapologetically feminine, and invitingly fresh. The notes are jasmine, bergamot, aquatic notes, cloves, and vetiver.

The sillage is moderate, but definitely does not go unnoticed. You’ll soon catch those you share conversation’s with leaning in just a bit closer as you speak.

Nishane Papilefiko

If you want to make a statement, wear anything from Nishane. The Turkish niche house delivers timeless creations with fantastic longevity and impressive sillages. But none has stolen my heart quite like Nishane’s Papilefiko Extrait de Parfum.

Papilefiko Extrait de Parfum by Nishane (Neiman Marcus, $245)

This was an accidental find. I came across this sample in a grab bag my father had from Neiman Marcus. After one sniff, I was shocked by how gorgeous it was. It’s very mature, in a “seasoned by life” kind of way. For example, I wouldn’t be surprised if Carmen and Sydney from The Bear wore this fragrance in the kitchen at the same time. Distinctly spicy with citrus, verging on chaotic, the aromatic blend of cardamom, coriander, lavender and moss keeps you wanting more. This scent makes me want to cry out, “Yes Chef!” I even wore it out to lunch with a Michelin chef to get his take. When I showed him, he asked me if he could have my sample bottle for himself. Chef’s kiss!

And the performance is hard to beat. After 8 hours of running errands through the NYC heat, Papilefiko stayed strong on all of its placements.

Maison Crivelli Hibiscus Mahajád

Maison Crivelli is in the limelight on #perfumetok. It’s only a matter of time before it becomes part of the mainstream. While their Papyrus Moleculaire will most likely be their most well known, the Hibiscus Mahajád is the life of the party across the collection.

Hibiscus Mahajád by Maison Crivelli (Ssense, $315)

This is the scent I think I smell like after dancing into the night with friends. It's captivating and fun, with an astounding sillage so no one will be able to ignore you.

With notes of hibiscus, damask rose, leather and vanilla, it can be played up or down in any situation or season. She really can do it all. I tried it for the first time recently and I felt like I was traveling on a pink cloud without a care in the world. And to my great pleasure, I saw many turning heads while walking down the street. It’s an instant confidence boost in a bottle for anyone looking for more “colorful” living.

Bonus Round

These are some additional runner ups that I think perform very well, but require a specific type of taste to enjoy them…

If you want to smell like you reflect light like a diamond, try Thomas Kosmala #4. This is my personal favorite of all fragrances. It surpasses “signature scent” ; it's simply part of my identity now.

If you want to smell like a devilish creature of the night, try Comme de Garcons Kyoto. One of the chicest people I know—a luxury watch dealer dating someone 10+ years her senior—wears this fragrance as a couple with her partner.

If you want to smell inarguably hot, try Marc-Antoine Barrois Ganymede. You’ll thank me that I put you on this early before the masses find out about it. You’ll have your love spell with it for a time, then may (or may not) move on.

If you enjoyed these, you can enjoy more of my takes on Instagram and TikTok. I also host It’s Called Taste, a podcast with the best tastemakers of our time to help you access your creative genius (bonus: I recommend each of them fragrances as well).

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Remy’s Perfume Recs

Thank you Asia! Those were amazing. As a bonus bonus round, these are some rapid-fire reviews of the perfumes I’ve been into this summer.

I got a chance to meet up IRL with Callum Mitchell, the extremely cool creator of Perdrisât perfume, which I’ve mentioned on TikTok before. Over coffee, he very kindly gave me a full size bottle of Money Water—thank god, because I was almost out of the sample. Callum, you’re the best <3

If you want a scent that will keep you intrigued throughout the wear, try Amicus Cumulus by Pearfat Parfum. The only downside is that it keeps my nose chained to my wrist because I can’t stop smelling it. I am equally hooked on Zernell Gillie’s Disco, a scent made for dancing. Speaking of Frederic Malle, their Heaven Can Wait scent is great as a layering piece. For the weirdest opening of all time, try Pipe Bomb by Blackbird. And for a total crowd pleaser, TikTok is right: Marissa Zappas’ Maggie the Cat Is Alive, I’m Alive! absolutely rules.

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I may earn some money if you make a purchase through one of the links above.

1. Remy’s note: Hopefully we can un-redact this mystery very soon… :)