Two posts in one week?! I’ve gone absolutely mad.
Truthfully, I couldn’t wait to deliver the second part of my 2024 style manifesto. Because while Pt 1— Masculin—painted a picture, you really need Feminin to tell the whole story, because both sides of this (entirely theoretical) wardrobe weave together to make one cohesive vision.
Plus I just watched The Last Seduction, an erotic thriller starring my favorite type of character: the bitch. She wants what she wants, and she’ll do anything to get it. She dresses in self-consciously feminine clothes, but has the brusqueness of a man. She does bad shit without apology. She is, in a way, a dominatrix. (If you want some tangentially relevant thoughts on costuming in erotic thrillers, this Vestoj article is a great read.)
This year, like so many of these leads, I am in search of power (especially in my career). And in my off hours, I want to embody a confident, cool sexuality. So let’s begin.
The Inspiration - Feminin
Like Masculin, this second installment revolves around the concept of a suit. But this time, the suit is usually a skirt suit, and always fitted within an inch of its life. We’re talking about pieces like this Galliano masterpiece, this deeply discounted Alaia getup, or this shockingly sexy Chantal Thomass set. Much like the last post, we’ll focus not on literal suits, but on garments that deliver the same vibe.
My vision began with the famous (and infamous) Mugler Fall 1995 Couture show. In a perfect world, I would include almost every single look from the show in this post; alas, our time is limited, so I strongly suggest going to check it out for yourself. But here is a mere taste of the delights it holds.
The look is severely feminine, not meant to entice but rather to intimidate—my favorite kind of femininity. The details I focus on in the show are an exaggerated waist-to-hip ratio, BDSM fabrics (latex, fishnet, lace) and a focus on hosiery.
It segues beautifully into Mugler’s Spring 1997 Couture show, which plays in a similar space of domination.
I bring this show up because I want to highlight two aspects—the traditional suit thrown into chaos by the substitution of a corset for a shirt, and the influence of the horseback woman.
I am always thinking about women on horseback (possibly because I loved Auntie Mame as a child). It ties in with my 2024 notion of the Feminin—she is in full skirts, but sitting astride a massive beast. She is in control.
No discussion of skirt suits and sexuality would be complete without a mention of Dita von Teese.
I think many people are interested in Dita for her lavish stage wear, or her crystal props; I am intrigued by her ruthless obsession with detail, and her relentless pursuit of perfection1. That, to me, is power.
Ok, enough with the inspo. Let’s start shopping.
Haughty Hosiery and Lovely Gloves
A clear thru line in the runway inspo is sheer tights and seamed stockings. Hell, in this picture, the model is even wearing stockings on her head.
And with that in mind, I have set out in search of the perfect hosiery. While I love a colorful stocking, this year, I am focused on black. And if you want to get serious, a fully-fashioned stocking (FFS) is considered to be the best money can buy; only a handful of manufacturers still make them. The texture is beautiful, the fabric as thin as moth’s wings.
As for FFS companies, I think Cervin is generally thought to be top dog in the field, but have also heard good things about Gio.
Note that in order to be considered true FFS, the stockings must not have hold-ups; in other words, you need to wear them with a garter.
Good thing Journelle is having a blow out sale as we speak. For something basic, Journelle’s Odette Suspender is beautiful. If you want one with a bit more embellishment (but for about half the price), check out Dita von Teese’s Cora Suspender. Playful Promises is also having a big ol’ sale; most of their garters are under $30. I think the Juliet Girdle has a cute retro look.
And yes, this is also a preview of next week’s Valentine’s Day post….
By the way, in my experience, it’s worth it to spend more money on a garter. A poorly made one tends to bunch up around the waist in a way that is guaranteed to drive you insane.
Garters and FFS aside, there are a million ways to wear a tight, and a million more places to buy them. I’ve mentioned before that I like Calzedonia; much of their stock is 60% off right now. These stockings look almost identical to the ones in The Last Seduction, and I am very much considering purchasing these seamed tights. Wolford is another hosiery brand synonymous with luxury…and you guessed it, they have a sale on too. I own and love these satin knee highs, which are a clever take on a sock. And I believe everyone should own a pair of fishnets—these ones are a nice micro-net, my preferred style.
And tights aren’t just for your legs. You can also wear tight-like equivalents on your arms. Consider…the glove. Perhaps…this glove.
To me, the glove is the ultimate erotic symbol—probably because I love Jane Austen, who always has people touching gloves and shit. But also because in this day and age, gloves stop you from using your phone. And there is nothing sexier than being out of touch.
If you want to something colorful and reasonably affordable, I love the pop of red in this Anthropologie pair. On the higher end of the price spectrum, Revolve has several sets of gloves that are sheer and seductive; this pair and this pair especially jump out. And if you want to really treat yourself—well, no one in the world makes better gloves than C’est Jeanne.
We’ve played around with sheer gloves and tights. Now, it’s time to consider the same accessories, but in an even more overtly erotic fabric: latex.
Latex-ual
Mugler loved latex; it shows up throughout his work, a fabric motif. That’s probably because it, like Mugler, is associated both with sex and an obsession with the wearer’s shape.
I impulsively bought a pair of latex gloves in 2020; here’s a picture of me wearing them at a bar in 2022, along with those Isabel Distassi earrings I’ve referenced in a video. (And for anyone who was wondering why I couldn’t be explicit in that video, it’s because the earrings are in the shape of gold dicks shooting drops of pearl cum. The more you know!)
These latex gloves are fairly similar to the ones I own. This past year, I expanded my collection with a pair of latex stockings, and I’m surprised by how often I reach for them. They make any outfit just a little salacious.
These stock photos don’t really do the pieces justice—especially because I prefer the dull texture of latex sans baby oil— but you get the picture.
In light of the latex renaissance, it makes sense that the brand Soft Skin Latex has been blowing up this year; I feel like I’ve seen every cool girl carrying their bow bag. And since I’ve been prattling on about headgear in 2024, I may very well scoop up this latex bonnet.
For more general latex shopping, I know William Wilde is also a fan favorite.
In Praise of Pinstripes
If there’s anything that truly bridges the masculin-feminin, it is probably the pinstripe. In the context of a baggy suit or loose trousers, it wiggles and swerves to emphasize movement. And that’s great. But my favorite pinstripe is found on a severe skirt suit, or wrapped around a tight button down top. Because at its best, pinstripes underscore obsessive tailoring.
The pinstripe always reads to me like the bars of a prison…like bondage.
So this year, I want pinstripes on everything, especially on workwear bottoms that would be equally at home in the club. Yes, I know this is the dreaded business-casual-in-the-club vibe millennials fear. And I’m here to tell you, you guys looked way better than all the college kids I see in mom jeans and Shein corsets…but more on that later.
These are all just a little…tight, in a wonderfully enticing way. Special shoutout to the buckles on that Miaou skirt for literalizing the bondage concept. It reminds me of how much I love this Chantal Thomass skirt. For a cheaper alternative, these Etsy pants are $30, and I found this Max Mara pinstriped pencil skirt for $50.
Now let’s talk tops. I think Bella Hadid’s “librarian core” top was the stripe heard ‘round the world, a blouse that launched a thousand “office siren” Pinterest boards.
If you want to achieve this look, here are a few ideas under $100 that all tap into that Y2K/Devil Wears Prada chicness.
An interesting alternative could be this sheer Lanvin shirt, or this extremely fabulous Vivienne Westwood top.
And yeah, I threw a vest in there. Sue me! I love a vest. Maybe I’m just deeply attracted to Blake Lively in A Simple Favor. But you know who else likes a pinstriped vest? Bella Hadid.
See what I did there? If you want a vest like Miss Hadid’s try this vintage Gaultier vest (yes, a different one), or this Stella McCartney one.
Wait, one more pinstripe to discuss. Her.
A pinstripe corset. She’s magnifique, non? And it makes this a perfect time to talk about:
Underwear as Outerwear
Part and parcel of this seductive suit look is the suggestion of underwear without ever seeing a bra and/or panties. So in lieu of the vest—the traditional midway point between trousers and a blazer—may I suggest pairing your blazer and skirt with a **corset**.
The idea of a corset itself is not novel. As mentioned above, every sorority sister is wearing them to party with Pi Phi. But are they wearing them in conjunction with an otherwise conservative outfit, making the whole thing just a little shockingly scandalous? I think not!
For this look we want corsets that are, much like the suit itself, clean and crisp. And good corsets are hard to make, so fair warning that everything in this section will cost a pretty penny.
Extra points to the Enfants corset for having buttons down the front which are reminiscent of a suit. This Pushbutton one and this KNWLS corset have similar architectural intrigue to the Palais pick; this Dolce & Gabbana one is going for less than it probably should. I am also drawn to the idea of a velvety piece a la this Hermes corset or this Chantal Thomass corset.
Then I started thinking about the idea of lacing up a corset, of restraining yourself. And yeah, ok, maybe it was because I was looking through the aforementioned Dilara collection and saw this.
If you drew those laces a little tighter, it would be a very modest garment. The appeal of a lace-up dress like this Dolce & Gabbana one is that it can, theoretically, be undone. And that’s what led me to realize the potential of a lace-front corset under an otherwise demure blazer.
Alternatively, you could try and bargain the seller down on this Dior corset.
I’m going down to the Garment District in LA this week in search of a corset-maker I’ve heard rumors about…if I find him, I’ll report back in next week’s Substack.
Pain Points
Rounding out the look, I want any accessories that have an erotic tilt. We’re talking things that are leather, items with buckles and straps…anything that looks like it could hurt you.
Shoes first. While I proposed flat shoes with baggy suits, for a skirt suit, I think a gleaming stiletto or pointy toe boot is in order.
Special shoutout to the Nii HAi boots, which I own and love; you can find me wearing them minimum once a week in the winter. For another buckle alternative, consider these Paris Texas kitten heels, or You could also try these Dior heels (yeah, the peep toe is back, I’m sorry!), or these other Dior pumps.
Or you could go thematic and bring the corset effect down to the foot.
This Pushbutton heel is equally chic, and when in doubt, this beautiful pair from The Row is kind of the most classic heel imaginable.
So there you have it. That’s the vision. The masculin-feminin, unified through the suit, complicated by the accessories. I’ll keep you posted on what I actually buy to bring this from the realm of imagination into tangible reality. Until then—
Bonus: Sales on Sales
Yeah, you guessed it—more sales. Are you saying I’m predictable? Banish the thought!
First up, Mirror Palais. They get pride of place because I already mentioned one of their corsets. Palais has a sample sale and a swim sale on right now. Both small, both mighty.
Nonna doesn’t really get the credit it should; their styling is excellent, and their sale always turns up an interesting piece or two. This leather skirt could be an fun twist on suiting, and this lace-up coat probably should’ve been included earlier in the newsletter, lol
I did not think I would ever again utter the word Bloomingdale’s. Their in-store shopping has become a miserable experience—and that’s not to mention how damn ugly so many of their clothes are. But then, sigh, I looked at their designer sale and found this Markarian dress for 70% off. And now I have to reassess everything I know.
For better or worse, I walk in to Mohawk General Store around once a week. They have the best elevated wardrobe staples in town; in fact, that’s where I discovered Mijeong Park, a brand I referenced in a recent video— and some of Park’s items, like this tank top, are now on sale. Also I would straight up buy these trousers if they were in my size.
And a note of gratitude
Special thank you to my editrix Sophia, who is also in possession of immaculate taste (I am begging her to write a special edition of IT for you guys). You can find her IG here.
That’s all, folks!
I may earn some money if you make a purchase through one of the links above.
If you want to see what I’m talking about, just watch her Architectural Digest tour.